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In this little town, from which takes its name the
Valdumentina Valley, many famous artists were born. Between them,
Bernardino Luini, Leonardo's pupil, Raffele Casnedi and Bartoleomeo
Scappi, Pope Pio V's private chef, and author of the most important
treatise on Renaissance cooking 'Opera dellarte di cucinare'.
Its hamlet Runo is one of the Painted
Villages of the Varese Province and its houses are frescoed
with modern paintings.
Another 'artist' born in Dumenza was Vincenzo Peruggia,
the thief of Monna Lisa. On the morning of Monday, 21st August 1911,
Vincenzo, a 30-year-old Italian painter-decorator, in Paris since
1908, was able to get into the Louvre and out again, carrying the
Monna Lisa stuffed under his workman's smock. Vincenzo kept the
painting in his lodgings, hidden under a stove, for more than two
years. Then, in late November 1913, he sent a letter to an antique-dealer
in Florence, Alfredo Geri, offering to 'return' the Mona Lisa to
Italy. On December, Peruggia arrived in Florence, by train, with
the Mona Lisa in a wooden trunk, and he checked into the Albergo
Tripoli-Italia on via Panzani (today, the Hotel La Gioconda). Here,
in the presence of the antique-dealer and the director of the Uffizi,
Peruggia lifted up the false bottom of the trunk, under which there
was the picture. He was arrested later and imprisoned for 12 months;
Vincenzo Peruggia died in 1947.
To see:
- at Runo, the Church of San Giorgio, with a XIII century
romanesque bell tower
- at Trezzo, the Church and the Convent. From Trezzino, the
stations of the Cross line a smooth stairway leading to the Church
of Our Lady of the Assumption, between woods and meadows. From the
churchyard, we have a nice view on the valley and the Lake Maggiore,
in the distance.
- at Due Cossani, the farm-yard called "cort di rann"
(frogs yard) with its fine portico

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